The life of a micro brand watchmaker
is not always easy. Oh sure, it looks glamorous from the outside:
doodle up a new timepiece, send it off to the factory for production,
then jet off to party with supermodels while those sweet, sweet
Kickstarter dollars come rolling in. But in fact, making your own watch
brand requires hard work, late nights, and the bloody-minded
determination to endure Sisyphusian frustrations to create something you
love. Case in point: the Airavata.
Back in 2013, full-time medical student and part-time watch enthusiast Prateek Shujanya commissioned
500 units of a unique new model from state-owned Indian watchmaker,
HMT. It was funded by a group purchase through the Watchuseek Affordable
Watch Forum, selling the watches for just $80 each. Nicknamed "The Badass Unicorn,"
it would have a case identical to that of the HMT Janata, scaled up to
40mm. The movement would be the venerable HMT 0231, properly finished
and displayed through a case back window for the first time. The dial
and handset were designed by a forum contest with the winners chosen by
popular vote. It took some time, but everything was moving apace. Then
came the announcement: the Indian government was pulling the plug on the unprofitable HMT.
Remarkably, Prateek pulled it off.
He was able to secure his movement order from HMT and source the other
parts from outside vendors. As it was no longer an HMT product, the name
came off the dial although it remained on the movement. The production
run was cut in half, and the price went up to $143. Former HMT employees
performed final assembly. Now, in the fall of 2015, against all odds,
the first Airavatas are being shipped, including my green #015.
Like the Janata, the Airavata has a slim, polished stainless steel case with angular lugs. I
was struck by its size. I know 40mm is hardly considered large these
days, but I've grown accustomed to that case in 35mm form so it was a
bit of a shock to see it all grown up. Factor in the broad dial, domed
acrylic crystal, and 48mm length, and you have a watch with considerable
presence. In fact, I think it would have worked very well in a 38mm
case. It filled my 6.5" wrist nicely and even thick-wristed guys should
find it to be a good everyday dress size.
The back side boasts a display
window with an engraved ring. Here you will find the name in both Hindi
and English, serial number, movement info, and "f71" (the Watchuseek
Affordable Watch Forum
designation). Inside is the old reliable HMT hand wound movement, a
hearty little beater has powered millions of Indian wristwatches since
1961 and the Airavata is likely the last. It may not be the prettiest
movement, but it occupies a unique place in horological history, so it
will be nice to flip over the watch and visit it from time to time.
Of course, the real action is on the
dial. Three colors were offered: green, blue, and brown. All have a
metallic sunburst finish, polished wedge markers, and small Devanagari
numbers printed in a radial arrangement. The model name is printed in
Hindi at the top, "Parashock, 17 Jewels" below. At the very bottom edge
are the words "Made in India 0231." The polished hands are peaked and
tapered with squared tips. It is a perfect layout, properly balanced
with plenty of breathing room. My only gripe is the finish on the
handset. Generally, it looks fine, but sunlight reveals an uneven,
smeary surface. I don't know if it is an imperfection on the surface
itself or a watchmaker's fingerprints. Either way, I wish it weren't
there. Imperfections were always a part of an HMT's charm, but while
that kind of thing is quirky in a $40 watch, it is a little irritating
when you have spent $100 more. Schmutz aside, it is a lovely dial.
The watch arrived on a 20mm black
leather strap with white stitching. It is comfortable, looks quite nice
against the jade dial, and it's quality is leagues beyond those
typically supplied by HMT. Still, I could not resist swapping it out.
The lugs are drilled for easy spring bar removal. There is sufficient
room between the bar and the case to accept a wide range of straps
without interference. I
chose a tan gator print RIOS, then a sandy leather number from NATO
Strap Co. both of which popped against the green a dark brown cracked
leather strap toned it down for a more sober look.
Overall,
I am very happy with my purchase. True, I would love to get in there
and polish up those hands, but I probably won't. In every other respect,
the watch is a roaring success. The
watch has the same 1960's aesthetic that made the original HMTs so
endearing, in a modern size that broadens its appeal. Because the is a
completely new dial, it accomplishes the transition gracefully. The
Airavata neatly captures the HMT essence while maintaining its own
integrity.
Prateek
is not done. He is already soliciting ideas for his next project, most
likely sourced from China with a Japanese mechanical movement, but still
maintaining traditionally Indian elements. I look forward to the
result, but for now, I am content to enjoy my Airavata - the last of the HMT line (sort of) and the first Indian micro brand.
Very few remain, but if you would like to get one, contact Prateek through Watchuseek. You will have to register first.
Pro: Vintage looks with Indian flair.
Con: Poor finish on the handset.
Sum: The end of one era, and the start of a new one. The Time Bum will cherish it.
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